Skincare is chemistry, but you don’t need a lab coat
You don’t have to be a cosmetic chemist to create a cream that feels amazing and actually works.
But let’s be honest – DIY skincare is often either too basic or too complicated.
So here’s the in-between: a beginner-friendly formula that uses real cosmetic methods, but with ingredients and tools you can access at home.
This guide is made for smart DIYers – people who care about what goes on their skin and want to create more than just whipped shea butter.
What makes a cream stable and skin-friendly?
A real cream (not just melted oils) is an emulsion – meaning it combines oil and water using an emulsifier.
You’ll need:
- Water phase: floral waters, aloe juice, or hydrosols
- Oil phase: jojoba, almond, or squalane
- Emulsifier: to bind both phases (e.g. Olivem 1000)
- Optional actives: for skin benefits (like panthenol or botanical extracts)
- A preservative: if your product contains water – even DIY needs safety
And yes – a little pH check goes a long way (don’t worry, paper strips are enough).
📋 Basic Face Cream Formula (100 g)
Phase A – Water base (70.2%)
- 65% rose water (or distilled water)
- 5% glycerin
- 0.2% xanthan gum
Phase B – Oil phase (23%)
- 10% jojoba oil
- 7% squalane
- 6% Olivem 1000 (emulsifier)
Phase C – Cool down (6.8%)
- 3% panthenol (optional)
- 0.8% preservative (like Geogard 221 or Preservative Eco)
- 3% aloe vera concentrate or extract (optional)
- adjust pH to 5.0–5.5
🛠️ Tools you’ll need (no lab required)
- 2 heatproof beakers or jars
- small kitchen scale (0.1 g precision if possible)
- water bath (pot + thermometer)
- mini blender, milk frother, or whisk
- pH test strips (cheap and easy to find)
- alcohol to sanitize tools
Step-by-step instructions
- Heat Phase A and B separately to 70°C using a water bath
- Combine Phase B into A slowly, stirring constantly
- Use a milk frother or hand blender for 2–3 minutes
- Let it cool to ~40°C, then add Phase C ingredients
- Check pH with test strips – adjust with citric acid solution if needed
- Pour into clean jars – let it set for 24 hours before judging texture
💡 Tips for beginner formulators
- Always sanitize your tools – even for DIY
- Small batches (50–100 g) are best for testing
- Track everything you do – formulation is learning by doing
- Never skip preservatives if there’s water
- The cream will thicken as it cools – don’t panic early
Final thoughts: Your cream, your formula, your rules
Creating your own cream means you’re in charge of what touches your skin – texture, scent, and function.
You’re not just copying a recipe – you’re learning a skill.
This formula is just the beginning.
In future posts, we’ll dive into:
- How to choose botanical extracts with purpose
- What your preservative really needs to do (and what “natural” means)
- How to fix a formula that separated or feels too oily